How to Get Permanent marker Out of Linen
Designed not to come out — rubbing alcohol gives the best chance, but success varies.
Look up a different stain
How old is the stain?
Pick a stain and material above, then press “Show treatment”.
Frequently asked questions
Is a fresh Permanent marker stain easier to remove than a dried one?
Almost always. Treat Permanent marker as soon as possible — dried stains need rehydrating and longer treatment times, and some stains set permanently with heat or age.
Should I test the treatment on Linen first?
Yes. Always test any treatment in an inconspicuous area of the Linen first, and check the care label before you begin.
Safety rules for every treatment
- Test every treatment in an inconspicuous area first — some treatments can fade dyes or damage finishes.
- Blot a wet stain; never rub it. Rubbing pushes the stain deeper into fibers.
- Check the garment's care label and follow it — skip any step the label prohibits.
- Never put the item in the dryer until the stain is completely gone; heat sets most stains.
- Never mix ammonia with chlorine bleach — the fumes are toxic and dangerous.
- Never use chlorine bleach on rust — it can intensify the stain.
- Rubbing alcohol is flammable and can fade some dyes; spot-test first and ventilate the area.
- Acetone dissolves acetate, triacetate, and modacrylic fabrics — check the fabric label first.
- Use cold water first on blood and other protein stains; hot water sets them.
- When in doubt — a valuable, vintage, or delicate item — take it to a professional cleaner instead.